Marathon to Key West, FL - Wx Hold
February 10, 2020
Jamie McCullough
We leave Marathon on a nice morning and make it out the mouth of the marina only to have an engine warning light come on. The water depth along this area is uncomfortably shallow as Larry turns off and restarts the engines but the restart is effective and we make it through the shallows out to the Atlantic side to Hawk Channel. Some rolling seas and many crab/lobster pots later we pull into Key West, FL (40NM) in about six hours. Initially, we were hoping to depart Key West the next day for the crossing to Isla Mujeres, Mexico but unfortunately, the weather has changed and it is too rough to attempt the crossing. Fortunately, we have no shortage of things to do and see here on Key West, FL. We have a crew swap now as well, as Suzette Grant sadly departs the Independence but we happily have Jim Lennon return for his second tour of duty.
Exceptionally shallow water as we left Marathon Marina but Larry did an awesome job getting us back to deeper water and out of Florida Bay and through the 7 Mile Bridge channel to the Atlantic side to head south toward Key West, FL. Suzette & Gumby Grant enjoy the view and help watch for the ever-present lobster/crab pots.
Sunset Key with a pretty tour boat going by as we move through the shipping channel into Key West Bight Marina
The sunset from the Schooner Bar
Heading to Duval Street at sunset
Fixing up the old beauties, one at a time.
James Mastin’s “The Wreckers’ sculpture in Key West Historic Memorial Sculpture Garden. Wreckers saved lives and cargo from vessels that had run aground on the reefs outside of Key West. According to the informational plaque, “Wrecking was the islands first economy and the reason for her early existence. In fact, Key West became the richest city per capita in the U.S. during the mid 1800’s due to salvage fees received by the wrecking captains and crews; and ultimately the businessman, lawyers, clerks, packers, dock hands and insurance agents ashore”.
Of course no trip to Key West, FL is complete without some mention of Ernest Hemingway. He loved the fishing here and lived at 907 Whitehead Street for 8 years. He kept the house but moved to Cuba at that time. After his passing the family sold the house and it became a museum.
This picture hangs in the Bar at Sloppy Joe’s on Duval Street in Key West. We have read that Hemingway never set foot in Joe’s but the photo was amazing anyhow. Taken in Peru in 1956 while filming ‘The Old Man and Sea’.
Another must while in Key West is a visit to the Green Parrot Bar, the first and or last last bar on US Highway 1
Above the bar at the Parrot Bar…check out the equipment of the ‘Official’ Jamaican bobsleigh team
Officially the oldest bar in Florida (1930’s), we had to take a peek in Captain Tony’s Saloon. This is where Hemingway spent time and prior to that the building has been a morgue, a bordello, a telegraph office, a speakeasy and a cigar factory.
Inside the bar is this large tree. As one online article reads…’this was the gallows tree once in an open courtyard that was used for judgements and the building was later built around it. At least 75 people were hung here for piracy, along with other transgressors. Ironically, the tree itself is still alive; it extends through the roof, though Hurricane Irma took much of the top, at least six inches of the tree still peak above the building.’ The gravestone is another story…’it belongs to Reba I. Sawyer, a Key West native who lived from 1900 to 1950. Upon her death, her husband found scandalous letters between his wife and another man. The letters detailed their trysts, and how they would arrange to meet at Captain Tony’s Saloon. The widowed husband dragged his cheating partner’s tombstone from the cemetery into the bar, placed it under the tree, and supposedly said “this is where she wanted to be, so this is where she will stay”.’
Elvira’s stone was found the during refurbishing work in the 1980’s when the floor boards were taken up to reveal the bones of between 15 -18 people. Evidently, Elvira killed her abusive husband in self defense and was then hung at the gallows tree and buried here.
The captain & crew at Tony’s
This makeshift vessel carried 24 Cubans to Key West, FL. From Google…’Constructed primarily of 14 steel drums and an 8-cylinder truck engine, the Mariana landed in Key West in August 2015 after a 111-mile voyage from Cardenas, Cuba. It’s passengers, called “balseros” or rafters, were granted asylum after their arrival.’ Article from Florida Keys, by Gwen Filosa dated August, 02, 2019…’About 438 Cuban migrants have attempted to illegally enter the U.S. on the ocean in fiscal year 2018, the Coast Guard said.’
The Key West Custom House is now the Art & History Museum. The building was constructed in 1891 by Williams Kerr. I overheard one of the tour guides saying that it was built to specification of the Federal buildings to the North with 14 fireplaces and a steep roof to allow the snow to fall off the roof
It may be a ‘northerly’ build but the Custom House is very handsome
Not your average bar at Mallory Square
The Whistle Bar and the Bull Bar on Duval Street. Larry, Jim & Gumby are on the balcony waving.
Gumby measures his strength at the Bull Bar…he can definitely lift that beer!
The locals are friendly and colorful
Not finding a lot of history available on this cool building beyond the obvious ‘Founded 1891’
The cruise ship traffic in Key West is constant
So close to Cuba you have a wonderful selection of Cuban Cigars to choose from
Many presidents spent time on Key West at this location, so much so, that it was given the name ‘The Little White House’
The Freeman-Curry House is for sale. It has had only one other owner which I gather was Samuel Filer who built the house in 1865. He was a shipbuilder and merchant.
I love these postcard murals
The Independence in her slip at the Key West Bight Marina
A Key West must is the obligatory sunset photo
I wanted to be on the Tiki Cocktail Sunset Cruise!
A little bit more localish is the Hog’s Breath Saloon
So glad I did not miss a stroll through the Key West Cemetery
The USS Maine Memorial. This Navy ship sank in Havana Harbor in February 1898, contributing to the outbreak of the Spanish-American War. The ship exploded in the harbor killing 268 men.
The grave of Sir Peter Anderson the Secretary General of the Conch Republic. From Google….’The Conch Republic is a micronation declared as a tongue-in-cheek secession of the city of Key West, FL, from the United States on April 23, 1982.’
Ernest Hemingway’s house at 907 Whitehead Street where he lived for 8 years is now a museum. Although he loved Cuba and Florida he loved Ketchum, Idaho too and that is where he is buried.
The ubiquitous Key West roosters that you see & hear everywhere
Just one of the the colorful people of Key West our for a morning ride
This was the second lighthouse on Key West as the first was washed away in a hurricane in 1846. This lighthouse was built in 1848 and is located half a mile inland.
Morning run to the Southernmost Point in the continental U.S. Big day tomorrow as we cross to Isla Mujeres…a 36(ish) hour run…wish us luck!!!