The Final Stop...Anacortes, WA

Until writing the header for this post I did not entirely feel any major emotional twinges. My good friends will not be shocked, as I am not the most outwardly sentimental of persons. However, as I start writing one of my last Independence Chronicles, even I, am not beyond a moment of pause. It’s been 13,000 Nautical Miles and countless hours of amazing vistas, crazy open water hours that last forever and then are a thing of the past, ocean animals making friends, friends making memories, endless images that I will treasure for a lifetime. I truly never envisioned this time on a boat. This was all Larry. I will admit most has been a real adventure. Each day is not a repeat, unless you count the inevitable boat wash down at the end of the day. Yes, I will miss her. But, I think of our next adventure with a gleam of excitement. I feel the change and I am ready to go. I guess that’s the great thing about cruising, just like life, if you stay in one place too long the moss grows over you and it makes it hard to enjoy the new things in life. Here’s to our next adventure!

The Rock Fish Grill and Anacortes Brewery. Always time for a local brew…especially when they have been around for 30 years!

This mural of the old Skagit Saloon was created by Bill Mitchell, the director of the Anacortes Mural Project. The Skagit was originally housed in a wood building (1891) on Commercial Avenue that burned down. They continued to operate in this brick building rebuilt in 1902-1907, only to become a soda and candy shop due to prohibition. The true survivor of this story is Mr. Mitchell, who overcame a devastating car accident in his teens that left him a quadriplegic. He pivoted his life and went to art school and has created over 150 murals on the sides of Anacortes’ buildings. They are painted on three quarter inch plywood and mounted on the sides of correlating buildings. What an inspiration.

Another of Mr. Mitchell’s creations honoring the great Marine and ‘everything you didn’t know you need’ Store

This is no Fish Tale…evidently, they caught these monster halibuts of this size in 1890’s

This is Bill Mitchell’s mural of Larry Kelley, the “King of Smugglers”. He came to the Pacific Northwest and began an amazing career of opium smuggling in the 1860’s. He would transfer the opium from Victoria across the Strait of Juan de Fuca in a little fishing boat, by himself and off load it at various ports. The customs agents tried to catch him several time but he always neatly evaded them. Finally, customs agent Collector Ide heard that Kelly was was in the Upper Puget Sound area and he geared one of the custom launches into a fishing boat. He trolled the waters for many days and finally caught Kelly. He only had a 60 pounds on him but plead guilty and received two years in the State Penitentiary. Kelly got out early on good behavior but was quickly returned to the State Pen for smuggling again in 1910. (info from James McCurdy plaque)

The full mural of Larry Kelly the “King of Smugglers”

Above the Cap Sante Marina. The area was named by Anne Curtis Bowman, wife of railroad surveyor Amos Bowman. She said the hillsides reminded her of Cap Sante’ in Quebec, where she spent time as a child. They moved to the area in 1877 and Amos Boman named the town after his wife “Annie Curtis”. The town was founded in 1879 and soon after, the old growth forest was cut and the town was built. The Bowman’s started the Post Office, the Newspaper and had great hopes for the railroad making Anacortes into the ‘New York of the West Coast’. Amos Bowman passed away never realizing this dream but was content to see a booming industry of fishing and lumber.

My favorite old time clocks, this one off Commercial Avenue

The old McCracken House that is now a museum for Pacific Northwest art

So many lovely Victorian style homes that are so well cared for.

Behind the homes you find these rustic lanes where you can pull your car into your parking garage and back yard

This charming town not only has the sweet little libraries, but even better, the pooch treat hutch. This is a memorial to Clyde. He passed this January at 11 years old. He was loved by all and now is the host to biscuits for all dogs. Here’s to Clydie Bear!

Driftwood art made from the beach and displayed at the beach

Cap Sante Marina. Not a bad place to be for sale…the Independence is just two over from the big red boat on the first dock.

Photo shoot day! Jeff deploys his drone

We enjoy the views during the photo shoot

Mount Baker looks nice this evening

www.nordhavn.com

Check the link for the great shots and video from the photo shoot. Give Nordhavn a call when you’re ready to buy!

Comox, Silva Bay, Port Sidney and Victoria, B.C. Canada

We pick-up Dave & Renee in Comox. Dave grew up in Comox and his parents still live in the same house he grew-up in. We have a great dinner with Dave’s mom & dad and head out to Silva Bay the next morning (58NM). A pretty straight forward cruise with the exception of being warned (by the Canadian Navy) that we had entered a live ammunition exercise off of Nanaimo and we had best get out of the area as fast as we can. Entering Silva Bay was also pretty unusual, as you must cross the landing and takeoff zone for the local Beaver seaplane service. I could feel the mist from the floats as he roared over us after we cleared his ‘airfield’. On to Port Sidney the next day (35NM) via a current filed cut with on coming tug and tow traffic. We have a nice couple of days exploring the area and visiting with the relatives and then they were off, back to Comox via a rental car. We continue on to Victoria, B.C. (23NM) which, thankfully, when we pull in is pretty quiet. It is definitely one of the busier harbors for its size. Seaplanes, taxi’s, ferries, tourist boats and your general marina traffic - just for starters. We have a great visit with my family, that lives in Sooke, and some fun exploring the gorgeous city. It is amazing to think of this as our last port of call and the next stop for Independence is Anacortes, where she will be prepared for sale…

Sunset over the Comox Marina

All is still for morning departure from Comox to Silva Bay (58NM)

The tiny Silva Bay with many moored boats and one very busy de Havilland Beaver landing and taking off every hour to deliver people and packages through out the islands

Entrance Island Lighthouse

Larry guides us through the challenging cut of Porlier Pass between the Straits of Georgia and Trincomali Channel on our way to Port Sidney

Renee & Dave rejoin us in Comox and experience life on the Independence for a few days

Charming town of Port Sidney actually offers-up some fine weather

Hooks and peg-legs don’t stop this pirate from finding a good time in Port Sidney

We received this map on how to transit the Port of Victoria (after docking!), which has to be one of the busiest on the West Coast. There are countless seaplanes landing and taking off, a very large ferry that comes in and departs twice daily, along with multiple tour operators of small and large vessels, not to mention regular boat traffic like us….and don’t forget the teeny tiny taxi boats that buzz the marina like bees on warm, sunny days.

We are pretty lucky to arrive at a quiet time of day

The only event the day we pulled into the harbor was the arrival of the boats competing in the first leg of the Race to Alaska (r2ak). As stated at r2ak.com ‘America’s longest human and wind powered race’ from Port Townsend/Victoria, B.C. to Ketchikan, AK (self supported - no supply drops). Any boat without an engine can enter. The winner receives $10,000 and second place receives a set of steak knives…no joke. Notice how most of the boats deal with a no wind situation…pedal power!

The competitors boats for the r2ak…all shapes and sizes and configurations

The gorgeous harbor walkway around Victoria Harbour

The Empress Hotel has removed it’s ivy covered facade to preserve the 1908 structure. The Bengal Room has also been closed RIP (est. 1912). They have not decided what they are doing with the space at this time.

So now they have the new Q Bar…with ‘Warhol-Esque’ images of the Queen Victoria…did I mention it was a $60,000,000 renovation in 2017…the property is now owned by the Fairmont Group

Fisherman’s Wharf at Victoria Harbour

The Independence has a great slip at the marina

Right next to us is the busy Harbour Air Seaplane Base

A stunning day for walk around The Parliament Building.

My family Kyle, Aaron and Jennifer Rodd from Sooke, B.C. So happy we could spend time together. Thank you so much for the visit.

Wow, a million dollar view from our boat this evening!

The longhouse at Thunderbird Park with the Kwakwaka’wakw Heraldic Pole carved by Mungo Martin in 1952-53. His grandson, David Mungo Knox, restored the pole 2020

Knowledge Totem by Cicero August in front of the Parliament Building

The Parliament Building where 87 members meet to shape the future of the province. Queen Victoria looks out over the harbour

The r2ak racers getting ready for their big departure tomorrow

Victoria even has a charming little two block China Town

Fort Victoria, built in 1843, is now the Irish Times pub

Emily Carr’s (1871-1945) house. She was an artist and author, who challenged the Canadian landscape painters (all men). In 1927 she met the Group of Seven and forced her way into acceptance with her skill as a painter.

A great view from the Flying Otter Bar and Grill.

We got to tour the r2ak boats today and meet some of these brave sailors…

…off they go! Good luck on winning those steak knives!!!

Powell River, Canada to Grace Harbour, Toba Wilderness and Campbell River, Canada

Gumby departs the Independence for a long day of ferry rides and air planes back home to Bass Lake, California. Thanks Gumby for all your help! The remaining crew and captain continue on to Desolation Sound and Grace Harbour. A beautiful anchorage, where we spend two nights. The scenery and weather continue to improve as we head to the Toba Wilderness, with epic views of snow-capped mountains and plunging waterfalls. After two nights at Toba the drizzle and gray weather return and with news of yet another atmospheric river headed our way we move on to Campbell River (79NM) to ride out the storm in a marina…with wifi.

The first log-boom I’ve seen during our travels in these areas. Without roads you use the waterways. Now I know where all those ‘dead heads’ (loose large logs that can sink a big boat) are coming from.

Pretty shots of the Independence at anchor in Grace Harbour

More beauty shots

Time for a tender ride around the area…good thing we now have a Garmin chart reader for the tender, as this area is pretty confusing.

Double rainbow as the sun comes out

Millions of jellies at our anchorage

A cute little trawler anchors next to us in Grace Harbour

Thankful for this amazing weather on our way to Toba Wilderness

Just a little try at the fishing

Better luck in capturing photos of black bears feeding on shellfish during low tide

There are so many waterfalls they don’t all have names…just gorgeous ribbons of water falling off the rock cliffs

Independence on her own in the Toba Wilderness Marina

The base of the waterfall at the marina

The top of the waterfall above the marina

Local flora, mosses and berries

On the move…the waterways are the highways. This tug pulls trucks and fuel tanks and tons of other items - possibly for one of the local logging camps

The light house as we enter the channel to Campbell River

An amazing piece of artwork. This sailboat is all wood and just gorgeous.

Burial grounds on Tyee Spit, Campbell river

The mouth of the Campbell River. There are four native tribes of the Campbell River that lived primarily by fishing. After 1792 the European ships arrived and the late 1800’s brought logging into full swing. The log-booms were so thick that the mouth of the river you see here was practically blocked with great rafts of enouous logs making fishing in this area impossible. The log-booms existed until the 1990’s.

CorilAir Charters ready to go for a flight. In the 1970’s this seaplane base was reputed to be the busiest in the world. They transported supplies, equipment, parts and medivac services, as well as carrying crews in out of the hundreds of remote logging camps. In the 1980’s small logging operations gave way to large scale operations that no longer used the seaplanes, opting for high speed water taxi and crew boats, and the growing use of helicopters in the forestry industry contributed to a decline in the floatplane business. However, the tour and transportation business is still alive and well.

Driftwood art at Tyee Spit Dick Murphy Park

This carving at Tyee Spit Dick Murphy Park was done by three artists for the Shoreline Arts Society - Ernest Puglas, Jr. Henderson and Karver Everson. This amazing carving was just unveiled on May 31st of this year. It recognizes local nations’ connection to the land and co-operation. It depicts two figures holding up a sea serpent, telling of the ancient connections between families and nations on this part of the coast, and their resilience.

Miles of beautiful driftwood along the channel before Campbell River

Princess Louisa Inlet, Canada to Powell River, Canada

Gloomy and rainy today as we depart Princess Louisa Inlet. We rise early to catch the slack low tide through Malibu Rapids. Only one other boat is departing with us and as we make our sécurité call we can tell that the rapids pose no threat to us today. If you didn’t have advance knowledge, you would not believe there were rapids there. We back track our way down Jervis Inlet and reflect how lucky we were to get the awesome weather we had the other day. The weather continues to deteriorate with rain and wind making us content to pull into Powell River Marina and stay for a bit (65NM). The City of Powell River was established in 1912 as the first manufacturer of newsprint in Western Canada.

There be pirates in Powell River

Far down the beach you can still see the Independence in Westview Marina

Time to sample the local pubs and eateries

A fuzzy close up of this juvenile bald eagle in a windy spot, thus the ruffled feathers

One of the few spots left in the Westview Marina

We were treated to a twenty minute Sea Otter show as three of them cavorted around the dock across from us at the marina. Scent marking, preening their coats, eating crab and fish and chasing each other around - tumbling all over the docks. These animals truly have a sense of humor and know how to have fun.

The weather is still poor so a little bowling at the Persephone Bowling Alley seems like a good idea. Circa 1961, a five pin game played with tiny bowling balls…Larry won

Egmont, Canada to Princess Louisa Inlet, Canada

It is a cold, clear and beautiful morning, transiting up the Jervis Inlet. Our timing is crucial today to allow Larry to safely navigate the Independence through an area called ‘Malibu Rapids’. This is the only way into Princess Louisa Inlet (PLI). PLI is one of the absolute ‘must sees’ in life but in order to arrive safely you have to time the tides exactly right, waiting for a slack high or slack low tide. Larry opts for a slack low and as we cruise through the gorgeous glacier carved Jervis Inlet it becomes obvious that other boaters have made the same choice. We arrive at the entrance to Malibu Rapids a bit early and wait with eight other boats for the exiting water to be calmed by the incoming water. One 70 foot boat passes all the others and declares his intentions to enter the rapids first by giving a sécurité call (an alert advising other boaters, by VHF, that you are entering a blind area of one way traffic). The captain of an exiting sailboat radios back to the 70 footer letting him know that he may want to stand down for a bit as the rapids are still running at a 7 knot current. The anticipation and anxiety is growing on the Independence as we watch the exiting boats on AIS (Automatic Identification System) rocket through the rapids. Finally, the lead boat gives his sécurité and all the other boats claim a place behind the first. By the time we transit the rapids they are running at a 3 knot current, but it sure seems a lot faster than that as you feel the boat fighting the pull of the spiraling eddy pools and bounce over the turbulent water. As one person relayed over the VHF after she went through…”The current is still pretty spicy”. Spice or no spice, Larry did a fantastic job handling the Independence through yet another challenging experience (35NM).

To view Larry’s YouTube Video of our experience please click on the link below:

Malibu Rapids and Princess Louisa Inlet, May 22, 2024

An amazing day to ride the tide up Jervis Inlet toward Malibu Rapids and Princess Louisa Inlet

The ‘waiting area’ for running the Malibu Rapids, named for the Malibu Club of 1940 - the first of a planned series of resorts at Princess Louisa Inlet. PLI is named to commemorate the Princess Louise, the fourth daughter of Queen Victoria, whose husband was the Marquess of Lorne, Governor General of Canada.

Larry running Malibu Rapids at slack low tide with a three knot current

The reward for all the stress and worry is this glorious view of Chatterbox Falls…

Boats of 55 feet or larger are not allowed on the dock and the mooring balls were all taken so we spent our first day and night at MacDonald Island…

…so we took the tender to the dock to experience Chatterbox Falls and the rain forest trail

The trees wear an impressive coat of moss and there are streams everywhere

A panoramic of Chatterbox Falls, its’ spray and rapids

Gumby enjoyed the cocktail cruise

Thanks to Dave Garnett for introducing us to Vancouver’s’ Red Truck Road Trip Classic Lager…lovin’ the local brew

The following morning we move to mooring ball

Morning views and reflections

Larry took the drone up and was able to get this spectacular shot

As they say…what a difference a day makes. We exit Malibu Falls the next day at slack high tide and not a ripple to be seen. Also, not much of the view to be seen either due to the rain and fog.

Vancouver, Canada to Egmont, Canada

With cremember, Gumby Grant, back on board we move north through the Strait of Georgia’s wind and chop, using the radar until the afternoon. We continue through Agamemnon Channel and tie up in Egmont (56NM). The Bathgate ‘marina’ (at Egmont), is literally a piece of dock that you tie-up to while paying $180/night. They don’t even want you to get off your boat, possibly due to the hazards on the property. I thought for sure we were tying up in someone’s front yard. The log-boom protecting you is the one good thing (along with the sturdy cleats) but during tidal shifts, it looks as if some of the logs are about ready to float away and only held in place by the generous current. I will say the scenery is beautiful and it is nice to be securely tied overnight.

Big winds and chopping water in the Strait of Georgia

Entering Agamemnon Channel

Bathgate ‘Marina’ (photo courtesy of Larry McCullough)

The rain and mist provide a lovely sunset…

…and a gorgeous double rainbow

Friday Harbor, WA to Roche Harbor, WA

A sunny and calm short transit through the San Juan Channel brought us to the sweet little Roche Harbor (3NM) at the Northern end of San Juan Island. In the 1800’s many Coast Salish natives and other indigenous cultures lived on the island. The Treaty of Point Elliot in 1855 made the land available to outsiders. First People do now retain certain resource rights. British Marines established themselves here in 1860 after the Pig was shot (see Larry’s commentary in our previous post). The British quarried and processed limestone but after the land dispute was settled in 1872 in favor of the U.S., Roche Harbor was homesteaded by Joseph Ruff, then a series of others. During this time limestone was quarried, delivered by rail to chutes and dropped into the kilns in the harbor (picture below) where it was processed, then bagged/barreled on the wharf and readied for shipment. Eventually, a Tacoma lawyer John S. McMillin purchased the business and land in 1886. McMillin built most of the town we now see; the Hotel de Haro, the church, and much more that didn’t survive. McMillin’s son sold Roche Harbor to the Tarte family in the mid 1950’s. Tarte restored the hotel and warehouse on the wharf and turned the area into the beautiful resort it is now. Currently, Roche Harbor is owned by Komen an Illihe of Seattle, WA. (Info courtesy of Roche Harbor History & Wikipedia)

Cruising the San Juan Channel

Entering the very quaint Roche Harbor

The Wharf which used to barrel the lime is now filled with busy little restaurants and shops

Liking their little post office

This must be a San Juan Island thing…battle of the best pump-out names!

Another pretty little harbor view

A good name for a church

Gorgeous natural harbor with Independence in the foreground

The historic lime kilns, now with Bocce Ball courts in front

I won

Treated to a lovely dinner at McMillin’s, which started with a fantastic Martini made by Sara

McMillan’s restaurants

At sunset, during the good weather months, the ceremonial Color Guard is a true site to see. I was so impressed how these young people followed an intricate choreography and each anthem was played for each flag that was lowered. Before the American flag was lowered there was even a cannon blast.

Sunset over Roche Harbor…

…and the Independence

Good night Roche Harbor

Poulsbo, WA to Friday Harbor, WA

Departing Poulsbo we ride a nice little tide until we get back to the Strait of Juan de Fuca where the wind and waves are nasty. We bounce and crash our way through the next 30 minutes and thankfully enter Cattle Pass into Griffin Bay leading us around to Friday Harbor, WA (63NM).

The Cattle Point Lighthouse

Friday Harbor on a Monday

I think if you’re going to deal with other people’s sh*t all day you might as well have a good sense of humor about it

Admiring our view of the Independence here…

…and here

So crushed that the best looking pub in town had closed down. RIP Cask & Schooner

Normally, the ferry is lodged in this terminus, constantly filling with cars and people - running from 6AM until after 10PM. As the info plaque reads, the means of transiting these waters has changed greatly over the years. From Coast Salish canoes in the 1900’s to the Mosquito Fleet Steamers of the 1860’s to 1920’s, then followed by several small steamship companies which then became the Black Ball Line. In 1951, the State of Washington bought out the private companies and constructed the main terminal and waiting area in this present location..

Popeye the harbor seal was named this due to her cloudy left eye. She was part of the Friday Harbor views from 1995 until sometime around 2019. They still liked her even after she bit a tourist in 2017…maybe even more.

Larry off to discover Friday Harbor on Mountain Bike. He ended up at the San Juan Island National Historic Park. The brochure gave a bit of history that told of the tussle of ownership over this bit of land. Evidently, …………WE now interrupt this posting with a guest author, Jamie is getting ready to go out at the beautiful restaurant here in the harbor, ok, just like neighbors near your house there was a dispute about the boundary of the U.S. and Canada. The U.S. had settlers on the southern part of the island and established a sheep farm, it’s lonely and cold, say no more, it was called Belle Cue Sheep farm, site of today’s American Camp. The British in the meantime, did not like this because as with much of the world they said it was theirs. On June 15, 1859 an American shot an English pig, what can I say, it gets lonely and cold up here. Luckily this did not start a war but troops were sent from both sides in case fighting broke out. The English sent three warships, 400 Royal Marines. Of Course the U.S. had to respond and soon there were 461 soldiers. Fortunately, no shots were fired during the ensuing 12 years. In 1871 the boundary question was submitted for arbitration to Kaiser Wilhelm I of Germany. This was because Germans have always been known for being peace loving and wishing to avoid conflicts. It was ruled that the San Juan Islands belonged to the U.S. The museum does not give the reason why the U.S. won but what I heard years ago - was because old Wilhelm liked the Americans more and knew they had surveyed the surrounding waters and knew the depths. His solution was to award the Islands to the country that knew the area, the depths. Who knows if it’s true but history is written by the people who write it and I wrote it so it’s true. (Yes, Larry did take over this post and do a fantastic job)

Nice light over the back bay and all the boats in the Friday Harbor Marina

Bremerton, WA to Poulsbo, WA - Nordhavn Rendezvous!

Logo courtesy of Nordhavn

Let the games begin!  The long-awaited (one every two years) Nordhavn Rendezvous starts this week and we pull into the Poulsbo Marina (12NM) a day early because we are so excited to be part of the largest gathering of Nordhavn boats ever!  I believe there are supposed to be close to 60 Nordhavn owners in attendance. This heroic gathering is an owner initiated event with sponsors, educational seminars/speakers, dinners and dock parties, organized by Jill and Don Bernard (N47) and Bill and Emmy Baker (N62). We can’t thank them enough for all their hard work in making this an unforgettable weekend.

The Independence stern-tied at the Poulsbo Marina, ready to be ‘sandwiched’ by her brothers and sisters

Poulsbo has many welcoming eateries, breweries and pubs. This one is called The Brass Kraken Pub right at the harbor. The town of Poulsbo was founded by Norwegian immigrant Jorgen Eliason in the 1880’s. As much as the town is called a ‘Viking Town’ the only connection is the settlers’ heritage. The Scandinavians chose to live in this pretty area as it reminded them of the fjords of Norway.

The Sons of Norway gathering hall where all off this weekend’s events will be held

The charming main street has a classic town clock

This viking mural pays homage to Poulsbo settlers’ heritage

Charming little fishing boats depicted here in Dogfish Bay which was renamed Liberty Bay by the U.S. Coast Guard and the Geodetic Survey in 1914.

Sunset over this cute little outboard made to resemble a tiny tug

Uff da - my friends with Scandinavian backgrounds will understand this term

Always good to see a town that pays respect to it’s fallen soldiers

Viking King Olaf statue

Kit gets a weekend ride to town in style

The famous Sluys Poulsbo Bakery. The line wraps outside of the building during tourist season

Time for a Nordhavn dock party (photo courtesy of Doug Harlow)

(Photo courtesy of Doug Harlow)

The line up of Nordhavns begins

Drone photos by Doug Harlow. The outer arm is ALL Nordhavns

More images borrowed from Instagram. The Independence under the Northern Lights

A great time with a great bunch of people comes to a close

Weather moving in makes for a pretty sky…

…and a pretty sunset.

Seattle, WA to Bremerton, WA

After the Ballard Locks we cross Lake Union which is starting to kick-up. By the time we run the short distance to Bremerton (19NM) it is blowing 15 knots and gusting to 20. Larry expertly maneuvers the Independence into the busy ferry terminal/marina toward our slip. Thankfully, the marina team is out to lend a hand as it was pretty crazy getting her against the dock. Between the current and the wind it took a good bit of effort to get all the lines secure. Of course, as it always seems to be the case, the wind calms in the next few hours and the rest of our stay in Bremerton is lovely. Made only better with the 24 hour fly-by visit of our good friend and returning ship-mate - Chris Adams.

To say Bremerton is a Navy town is a bit understated. In 1998, the U.S. Navy commissioned Naval Station Bremerton as it’s newest home port. According to Google, in June 2004, Naval Station Bremerton and Submarine Base Bangor were joined to become one regional base known as Naval Base Kitsap. Above is the 31 foot long ‘Sail’ from America’s Most Decorated Ship the USS Parche.. It is 18 feet tall and weighs approximately 60 tons and is specially hardened for breaking through ice when surfacing in Arctic waters. This nuclear-powered submarine conducted many special operations between 1976 and 2004, all of which remain classified to this day but were generally known as Cold War and post Cold War intelligence-gathering operations. This sail supported many functions; it contained the fairwater planes used to maneuver and maintain depth, and the periscopes and masts used for navigation and communication. The sail is free-flooding - no crew would be inside when the sub was submerged. When operated on the surface, a team of three or four officers and crew stood watch on the bridge located in the forward part of the sail. Parche’s crew earned nine Presidential Unit Citations, the highest award a ship can receive, as well as ten Navy Unit Commendations, and 13 Navy Expeditionary Medals. The stripes displayed on the sail are efficiency awards earned by her crew in competition with other submarine crews. The most important efficiency award a ship can receive is the Battle E annually to the ship or unit that demonstrated the highest state of battle readiness - that’s a lot of lines under the E! The USS Parche was decommissioned 2004.

The 911 Memorial in Bremerton is very powerful. These 5,000 pound beams from the Twin Towers sit gracefully beside the flowing water. Children’s ceramic tiles surround the memorial. At 10 years old they were asked to define “What a Hero Means to Me?”.

Made in America…in fact right here in Bremerton, WA, Life Proof boats. We went for a ride and think they are pretty sweet.

During our Life Proof boat demo we had the awesome luck to see Orca Whales (photo by Larry McCullough)

Time for a cold one with Chris Adams, who literally flew in to Bremerton for 24 hours to say hello

While we enjoyed our dinner there was a fabulous wild life show at the dock of the Boat Shed. This adult Bald Eagle grabbed a Cormorant and dragged up on the dock, where he/she dispatched it quickly

The Eagle seemed to enjoy every fresh bite

The USS Turner Joy DD 951 (commissioned in 1959 and decommissioned in 1982) moored in front of the Bremerton Marina is now a maritime museum

The Bremerton Harborside Fountain Park. The sculptures are made to resemble an armada of submarines leaving the Bremerton Naval Ship Building Yard heading out towards the Sound. The explosion of water created by air driven jets (one sub every five minutes or so) is also meant to reference whale spouts and the volcanic activity of this area…that is the abstract part of the design by Sun Valley, CA WET designer Patty Lundeen.

After all that history, sculptural and culture it is time for a drink…I wouldn’t want to disappoint!

Port Townsend, WA to Seattle, WA

A chilly departure from Port Townsend brings views of the snow capped Olympics as we transit toward Elliot Bay (33NM). On April 1st we arrive at the Seattle Yacht Club through the Ballard Locks (10NM). Gumby gives leave at the SYC and the remaining crew quickly spiff up the ship for tomorrow’s arrival of our SFYC ‘royalty’…our past and current commodores and family. We are thrilled to have them on board and look forward to Seattle’s Opening Day festivities, which are claimed to be the largest in the nation.

A cold morning run with beautiful views as we depart Port Townsend

Enjoying the views and still water

A great view of the Seattle skyline from the Elliot Bay Marina

So great to get to visit with Natalie Grant while we are in the Seattle area

Popular tattoo artist turned muralist, Kyle Martz, was commissioned by the Genuine Alaska Pollock Producers for this masterpiece at the Pier 91 Cruise Ship Terminal

Sunset views at Elliot Bay Marina…

…and twilight views. Our days are getting longer as we move north.

Just a 10NM hop from Elliot Bay brings us to Salmon Bay and the shipping canal

A train crosses the busy Salmon Bay Bascule Bridge as we wait for our lock to open

After 45 minutes we are lucky to get into the small lock. It is only a little over a 100 feet long so it’s just us and one other boat locking up. In this photo the doors are closing behind us to allow the water in the lock to rise to the level of Lake Union. The Ballard (Hiram Chittenden) Locks were built in the early 1900’s and according to Wikipedia, carry more boat traffic than any other lock in the U.S. The construction of the locks created great changes to the environment of Seattle and it’s surrounds. The Locks lowered the water level of Lake Washington and Lake Union by almost nine feet, reversing the flow of rivers, leaving piers high and dry and adding miles of ‘new’ waterfront.

I truly thought I would never see another lock after doing 53 of them on the Great Loop. The small lock has a floating wall with ‘buttons’ that you loop your stern and bow lines to. You then just float up 30 feet in approximately 20 minutes.

When told by the Lock Masters, you release your lines and depart the lock toward Lake Union

Entering Lake Union you cross under the Fremont Bridge (foreground) and then the Aurora Bridge (background)

We pass by Gas Works Park, which was once the site of the Seattle Gas Light Company, a coal gasification plant, which operated from 1906 to 1956. The land was then purchased by the city of Seattle in 1962 and opened to the public as a park in 1975.

Busy Lake Union with float planes taking off and landing in front of the Seattle Space Needle

Seattle skyline views recede as we move toward Portage Bay and the Seattle Yacht Club (SYC)

The pretty Seattle Yacht Club, so quiet now… but just wait…Opening Day festivities start tomorrow

With SYC at full capacity we have boats rafted to the Independence

Boats getting dressed up for the Opening Day Parade on Saturday

The Montlake Cut and Bridge, where the Windermere Cup Races will take place along with the Opening Day Parade

Traditional art by an Alaskan artist Chief John Wallace, 1937

A little ‘Sleepless in Seattle’ moment as we cruise by the neighborhood where the 1993 movie was filmed.

Opening Day weekend festivities kick off with ‘The Commode Cup Race’. The commodores from the Seattle YC, the Royal Vancouver YC and the Royal Victoria YC compete in the peddle controlled Mini 12s. The winner has to drink beer from the ‘cup’. This year’s winner is Commodore Mark Owen Flood ot the Royal Victoria YC.

Next up, a ride on a classic boat. Jojo Dailey and I get to ride in a 1938 Split Cockpit Runabout (on the left). On the right is the ‘Conny’, the original launch built for University of Washington crew team in 1932 and named for coach Hiram B. Conibear (“Boys in the Boat”).

I am sitting next to Dick Dow, owner and classic boat restorer. He bought this 1938 Split Cockpit Runabout for $1.00. It was in such rough shape it took him 14 years to restore and was relaunched in 1990 with a 350 MerCruiser in her. She handles amazingly and takes the lake chop like cutting through butter with a hot knife. What a blast. Thank you Dick!

Party time on zero dock with a theme of Pirates and Pursuers

Our past and present San Francisco Yacht Club commodores and family members…Evan Dailey & Jojo, Matt Frymier & current SFYC commodore Jeni Dailey

This is the Log Boom from 1989. The weather is not as good this weekend but there are still a huge quantity of boats on the boom.

Hundreds of boats tie up to logs fixed in the lake and hang out for the weekend to watch the races and the parade

Saturday and the official ceremony of Opening Day at the Seattle Yacht Club begins with all the pomp and circumstance

The Windermere Cup races begin. It is a 1.25 mile course and most races take 10 or 11 minutes. We are perfectly situated at the finish line. This is one of the few courses where the contestants can be constantly cheered on by the crowd as they go by the Log Boom and then down The Cut.

The exhaustion is apparent directly after they cross the line

The contestants then have to loiter in Portage Bay until all the races are done and they can return back up the cut

The National Italian Team was here to race as well. They competed against University of Washington and University of Wisconsin. University of Washington won - go Huskies!

Waiting for the Parade of Boats to begin

The Sea Scouts and the fire boat in the background make a fine start to the parade

The Dailey’s oblige us with a stern photo on the Independence

The entry of the Seattle Yacht Club established in 1892 and originally located in Elliot Bay

On the Montlake Bridge at sunset bidding adieu to Portage Bay

Making our way back to the Ballard Locks. One last view of the Seattle skyline.

Rounding out our experience we get to lock down in the large Ballard Lock

The Lock Masters take your 50 foot bow and stern lines and secure them to the rail as other boats raft against the larger wall boat (us). The lock doors close and the water quickly drops down 30 feet in approximately 20 minutes. The lines are played out during the drop and then thrown back to you as the rafting boats depart and we are given clearance to exit the lock.

Dropped and good to go. Off toward Bremerton, WA we go.

Port Angeles, WA to Port Townsend, WA

I am very happy to not have much to write about regarding our transit from Port Angeles to Port Townsend. We fueled up at the Marina, as the price of diesel was too good to pass. The morning departure was foggy but uneventful and we slid into our side-tie at the Port Townsend Boat Haven before noon (31NM). My searches online tell me that Port Townsend was founded in 1851 by European settlers and incorporated as a city in 1860. The city grew rapidly with shipping and commerce and as the Customs Port of Entry for Puget Sound. The early Native Americans were the Klallam Tribe that fished, hunted, foraged and traded here. The Klallam called the area Kah Tai but the British Captain George Vancouver named the area Port Townsend in 1792 and most of the indigenous persons were vanquished by the incoming human diseases they brought with them. The 1850’s was a time of great timber harvesting and subsequent shipping to San Francisco. Besides logging, there was agriculture and businesses that sprang up catering to the ‘maritime trade’…and yes…saloons and bordellos, but also Chandleries (ship part suppliers, think West Marine) and hotels. In the early 1900’s the military placed a defense here to prevent ‘a hostile fleet from reaching such targets as the Puget Sound Naval Shipyard and the cities of Seattle, Tacoma and Everett’. The forts never fired a hostile shot and most of the guns were removed during World War 1 for use in Europe. As the years moved on this town, like most we visit, have transitioned to tourism as their major economy.

Point Dungeness Light midway on our transit to Port Townsend has been in continuous operation since 1857. The second lighthouse established in the Washington territory.

Point Wilson Lighthouse (1879) is still an active aid to navigation. Located in Fort Worden State Park not far from the to Port Townsend Marina.

The busy Port Townsend ferry to Seattle and points between

The scene stealing Jefferson County Courthouse in Port Townsend, commands your attention as you enter the harbor.

Beginning to see/feel the effect of the northern tidal influences as we enter the marina in Port Townsend. A daily tide differential of eight feet is the norm here.

Docked. The happy Captain and crew get to enjoy a little break of good weather in Port Townsend

If you don’t know already, the Captain and crew like beer. Luckily, so does Port Townsend. A sampling of pics from The Pourhouse and Sirens Restaurant.

Our marina has some lovely sail boats. This sunny yellow hull is perfect for today’s weather.

The Hawaiian Chieftain is seen going out for an Opening Day blessing

Just couldn’t leave with out sampling the beer at Port Townsend Brewing Co. ….

…or for that matter, a very different brewery but shockingly good. Propolis Brewing (est. 2012) which offers seasonal botanical farmhouse ales (brewed with wild-crafted herbs and forest ingredients) that are very unusual but very tasty. My favorite being the long stemmed Montem.

Loving the art from the Blackfish Tour boat. The stylized Orca with Orcas Island at the center.

This sculptures is of a Dungeness Crab’s first larval stage called a Zoea

Just a little flavor of this port town

The Hastings Building completed in 1890. The large cast iron columns at street level were from the Port Townsend Foundry (est. 1883). Doctors & lawyers filled the upper offices, while the realtors office was at street level along with Max Gerson Dry Goods purveyor of Cigars, Tobacco, Confectionary and Smokers Articles. The building is now undergoing a renovation where the final stage will rebuild the missing cupola.

The Jefferson County Courthouse was built in 1892. The sandstone was quarried in Alaska and the red colored bricks were shipped from St. Louis. Both the bell and the clock mechanism in the 124-foot tower were built in 1891 by the E. Howard Watch & Clock Company of Boston, MA. The clock operates by 250-pound weights which drop slowly from the tower to the basement, enclosed in a cedar shaft.

St. Paul’s Episcopal Church built in 1865

The Bell Tower built in 1890, was used to call volunteer firefighters to their posts.

Charming houses along the bluff edge of town. Many appear to now be Bed and Breakfast establishments.

Sunset after a rainy day. We depart tomorrow for Seattle.

Newport, OR to Port Angeles, WA

Well, it wasn’t the Kraken, but it sure felt like that is what had hold of the boat for 10 out of the last 35 hours of transit (341NM). Leaving Newport Harbor while the moon was setting over Yaquina Bay, gave no indication as to what was in store for us. Larry had done extensive weather research and knew that the first few hours would be uncomfortable but nothing worse than ‘The Bash’ coming up from Cabo San Lucas last year. The first few hours saw expected wave heights of five feet at acceptable intervals, but the advance reports of the winds calming north of the Columbia River were not accurate and conditions actually worsened, as wave heights increased and intervals shrank. Our little ship was tossed and bashed by five to seven foot seas. The tender groaned and squeaked in her cradle, while the contents of the galley pitched about tossed. The refrigerator (latched and bungeed) would pop open regularly, making me do the dangerous ‘Nordhavn two-step’ to re-secure it. I considered using my night-guard to protect my teeth in case I landed face first during one of these graceless events. Larry remained at the helm, varying throttle speeds for 10 hours, making sure we didn’t crash down too hard off the crest of the waves. Finally, after the sun went down, somewhere north of Westport, WA the wind began to calm and then thankfully the water did as well.

Of course, I hear you all asking what any rational person would ask, “Why didn’t you wait a day or two?”. Well, as happens, the weather reports were not accurate and we really wanted to get the coastal transit over with. Thankfully, Nordhavn boats are incredibly built and made for the conditions we endured. The trip was definitely harder on the Captain and crew than on the boat. We are happy to be in Port Angeles, WA eating Pizza and having a cold beer, reliving the moment when the Independence took a monster wave over her bow and all we could see was green water…glad that’s over.

A beautiful moon set as we depart Newport, OR

A few hours later we get this and much worse for the next 10 hours

A wonderful sight to see, Cape Flattery and the mouth of the Strait of Juan de Fuca

After 35 hours we arrive at Port Angeles, WA

Thankfully, we didn’t need any of the emergency items from the ditch bag. Back to the shelf they go.

Independence at rest in the Port Angeles Marina after her long run up the West Coast 775NM

Right at the dock. Beautiful metridium anemones and busy barnacles

Cancel the Silver Alert…I located these two!

Time to explore Port Angeles

There is an artwalk with all kinds of great sculptures, like this giant weathervane/wind chime

…and these whales.

I particularly liked this whale bone vertibrae sculpture….

…the graceful cormorants…

…and this octupus made from a mosaic of beach stones

This mural depicts how the city of Port Angeles was lifted up 100 years ago. The sea-level mudflats that the town was originally built on would constantly flood and the placement of municipal pipes was impossible. The solution was to use high-pressure water cannons drawing seawater from the harbor, sluicing tons of mud from the “Hogback”, a hill above the main area of town. The mud then flowed into concrete forms to boost the downtown streets 10 to 14 feet above the high-tide line. Completed on June 22, 1914, after only six months, raised the city out of the muck and allowed for the first sewer system to be laid. The mud took six years to dry during which time the towns-folk walked over wooden planks crisscrossed about town.

We had a great chowder lunch in The Wharf at Downriggers restaurant. The huge props are from a Black Ball Ferry. Each prop is 8 feet in diameter and weighs 2,600 pounds. The ferry line started in 1818 offering scheduled transatlantic passenger service between New York, USA and Liverpool, UK on sail-powered clipper ships. Today the popular ferry line here in Port Angeles operates a 341 foot auto and passenger ferry with daily runs to Victoria, B.C., Canada.

In The Wharf you will find the kids playing in the Arcade

The Klallam originally inhabited the area of Port Angeles and traded fresh water and salmon berries with the first European Explorers (Spanish) in 1791. The Captain of the Princesa Real, Francisco de Eliza, named the harbor Puerto Nuestra Señora de Los Ángeles. Like other Pacific Northwest cities, Port Angeles was known for logging and fishing/canning with a Coast Guard presence as early as 1862 and a USCG Air Station in 1935 (the first permanent air station on the Pacific Coast). In 1938 President Franklin D. Roosevelt visited Port Angeles and pledged his support for creation of the Olympic National Park in 1937 which was signed the following year.

The Clallam County Courthouse built in 1914.

The Elwha Klallam Museum at the Carnegie Library displays cultural and historical artifacts related to the history of the Tribe and other tribes on the Olympic Peninsula.

Street signs are also written in the language of the Elwha Klallam Tribe

Taking advantage of a nice weather day to have a cold one with a view at The HARbinger Wine & Beer BAR.

Here We Go! SF Bay to Newport, OR

Finally, we get our weather window!  Well, at least enough to get us out of the harbor.  Larry has been wearing-out the keyboard of his computer looking at the different weather models for the last month.  Thankfully, through his diligence and patience, he found a little window to get 434NM (refresher…1NM = 1.15 of a statute mile) up the coast.  We depart at first light out of the San Francisco Yacht Club harbor and are under the Golden Gate bridge and heading north before the sun is over the horizon.  The first day is relatively calm with a mix of three to five foot waves but the intervals are generous so we are happy.  As night falls we prepare the lower helm station for a moonlight transit and are happy to share shifts with our returning crew member Steve ‘Gumby’ Grant.  The night is kind to us and we greet our second day with similar conditions and another moon lit overnight.  Thankfully, we enter Newport Harbor, OR at daylight as the last few miles of transit are littered with crab-pots that have us constantly altering course.  At least along the Sonoma/Mendocino coast you know that pots can only be placed 180 feet out and no deeper.  But, in Oregon (and possibly beyond) it looks like they are placed wherever they can and want (even in the channel entering the harbor!).  Wish us luck with the next 297NM transit!

Finally, good weather!

Looking back at the Golden Gate Bridge at sunrise

Point Bonita Lighthouse

The first sunset of two

Passing by St. George Reef Light off the coast of Crescent City, CA. (Klamath Mountains in the background). Construction began 1883 and several people lost their lives due to the extreme location. Completed in 1890 of concrete and granite the light rises 144 feet above the water and originally had a Fresnel lens. Light operators were understandably, hard to keep due to the remoteness of the location, causing many to seek transfer due to suffering mental breakdowns. The light was decommissioned in 1975 and replaced by a “floating lighthouse”. Thankfully, the St. George Reef Lighthouse Preservation Society raised funds by selling tours of the site by helicopter and were eventually able to ‘relight’ the St. George in 2012. The lighthouse was listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1993. (Information courtesy Wikipedia)

Mack Arch off the Oregon coast

The Sionyx Aurora low light camera for the overnight transit

Sunset number two

As night shift begins again

The lower helm station with charts, radar and low light camera screeens

Thankful to arrive at Newport, OR after 51 hours straight. Cruising under the graceful Yaquina Bay Bridge was a treat for weary crew.

After refueling and quick wash down of the Independence we had to wait three hours for electrical and then finally, a hot shower! The Captain and crew look a bit happier (and definitely, smell better).

Secure at the transient dock at South Beach Harbor…not sure for how many days as poor conditions are returning

Making the best of our time, we check out the Rogue Brewery

Thirsty sailors

Good beer does disappear

The Rouge Brewery is located across the street from the south span of the Yaquina Bay Bridge (U.S. Route 101). Built in 1934, the elegant, steel and concrete structure is of Art Deco and Gothic influences. Designed by Conde B. McCullough (one of eleven major bridges designed by him). The first automobile crossed on September 6th, 1936.

The Rogue Sunset Bar is aptly named and very appreciated

DARE, RISK, DREAM - I think we are doing a bit of all of that….and purchasing the Dead Guy Pilsner and IPA to go!!!

Throw your crab pot off the Public Fishing Pier and catch a few Dungeness in 30 minutes

Newport has a familiar history of displaced Native Americans (the Yacona) combined with entrepreneurial endeavors of the incoming settlers. The settler being Sam Case and his Ocean House Resort constructed in 1866 spurring the development of the Bayfront area of Newport, OR. Prior to the settlement, ships from San Francisco were coming up the coast to harvest the rare Rock Oyster. The Yacona wanted compensation but by 1869 the native oyster beds were depleted. The railroad arrived in 1886 along with a massive Spruce Tree Mill and the U.S. Life Saving Service (to be renamed the Coast Guard) established a station on the South Beach of Yaquina Bay in 1896. The 1912 discovery of ‘halibut banks’ brought commercial and sport fishing to the area followed by an Ice Plant Operation in 1926 and The New England Fish Co. 1945. Newport today has the largest commercial fishing fleet on the Oregon Coast.

We cross Yaquina Bay to have the famous clam chowder at Mo’s and spend a great afternoon with our friends Saani and Scott

The busy fishing docks of the Bayfront area of Newport, OR

The busy seal dock has a ‘waiting area’ (top of picture). What a loud crowd.

Final, final with our good friends at the Rouge Sunset Bar

Waiting For Our Weather Window

We are still accomplishing projects and tasks every day in preparation for our trip north. Larry is checking the Windy App constantly. We thought we had a window the first week of April but that devolved, so now we are just hoping the next high pressure system will come along soon. Until then we will keep up with our projects and planning.

Resources

These great maps were provided by our sweet friends and Pacific Northwest experts Gay & Wyman Harris.

We hope to follow the path they took on one of their trips

Provisioning is a little more challenging with the Miata

Shake-Down to Alameda

In late February we decided to do a Shake-Down to the Ballena Bay Yacht Club in Alameda (8NM). A lovely day for a cruise with our good friend Keith. The transit was just a little over an hour. We want to be certain that our systems are running well in preparation for our trip north toward Alaska. Also, we have the Cummins engine service department meeting us in Alameda to do a service on the engines prior to our departure north.

Nice day for a cruise across the bay to Alameda

The USS Hornet at Old Alameda Point

A nice surprise to have Chris Adams join us in Alameda

Ballena Bay Alameda

Beautiful sunset views from our slip in the harbor

This is where they keep some of the best views of SF

The very friendly and welcoming Ballena Bay Yacht Club. Thank you for the beers Keith!

Like those Ballena Bay YC burgees

Independence looking pretty in her slip this evening

Our good friend Brian Kennedy is a volunteer on the USS Hornet so we are lucky enough to get a private tour

I’m ready Mav! The USS Hornet is also a Sea, Air and Space Museum. Save a good chunk of time to see all the displays.

Coms - old school

The Bakery, Kitchen and Mess. The USS Hornet was a ‘floating city’ with 2,919 officers and enlisted on board during wartime. A full time/round the clock job to keep people fed….

….clothed (mending and cleaning of uniforms and boots)…

…and fit, with gym equipment. A display of women’s uniforms…however I do not believe they were able to serve on board this aircraft carrier.

The flight deck is 814 feet by 86 feet. There is a hangar deck that is 546 feet by 63 feet and 17 inches high. The ship has three elevators measuring 48 feet by 44 feet with a lifting capacity of 17,000 pounds. The Hornet was originally commissioned as a straight-deck carrier, but from 1951 to 1956 she underwent a modernization to an angled deck, permitting the simultaneous launch and recovery of aircraft. In addition she was fitted with a pair of hydraulic catapults, which ran parallel to one another off the bow of the ship. In World War II, the air groups consisted of a fighter (VF) squadron, a bombing (VB) squadron and a torpedo (VT) squadron. In the 1950’s with the evolution of warfare technology the addition of electronic/early warning, photo-reconnaissance and anti-submarine warfare aircraft. The USS Hornet fought in the battle of Midway and many others in the Pacific Theater. During her 18 months of combat she shot down 668 Japanese planes, destroyed 742 Japanese planes on the ground, sunk 73 enemy ships and damaged another 413. The USS Hornet was decommissioned in 1970. ( Info courtesy of The USS Hornet website uss-hornet.org).

Our fabulous tour guide and friend, Brian Kennedy. Thank you for a great tour!

From google.com “On July 24th, 1969, the USS Hornet recovered the Apollo 11 astronauts, Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin, from the first moon landing mission. The aircraft carrier spotted the fireball at 4:40 AM, and the astronauts were hoisted into a recovery helicopter and flown to the Hornet”. There is so much to see at the USS Hornet Sea, Air and Space Museum (a Smithsonian Affiliate), visit soon! uss-hornet.org

Captain's Post #16 - Getting Ready For Alaska, Getting Ready to Sell!

Yesterday I was on my way to Independence with 16 gallons of oil for changing the two Cummins diesel engines and I stopped by our local US Post Office to pick up the mail. In the mail box was a Property Tax bill from Marin county. I had been expecting it since I called them last year but what they are billing me for is outrageous.

The “Net Value” of what they came up with is 152% of what I paid for the boat! How did they come up with that value, the bill does not say. I had some previous discussions with them after they sent me a “Notice of Proposed Escape Assessment”. In those discussions I was informed that they put a base value at 127% of my purchase price back in 2018. But get this, you will find this hard to believe, they add California Sales Tax to that value “because GAAP (Generally Accepted Accounting Principles) says if someone is going to buy the boat in California they would have to pay Sales Tax. Add the sales tax and the base value and you now get the number to multiply by 10% to get the penalty. But, I informed them, “I called you last year to tell you I have the boat here in Marin, I am not trying to escape a fair tax”. Turned out I did not call them in time, I was told I had to notify them in April, sorry my Mom was dying of cancer at the time and I was her primary provider. Oh, that was not enough money, let’s tack an Interest penalty, School Bonds and Health Bonds.

I was very calm and polite in my phone calls and emails. I found out that the two “Comparable” boats were sold for $150,000 to $200,000 less than they were saying Independence was worth. I pointed out to them that those were 2 and 3 years newer and were custom models with very little hours (685 as opposed to 2,380) AND, one was bought in Florida and the other was bought in California but did not pay sales tax so how can you justify adding on sales tax to my value, no answer just the bill. I have supplied them pictures, videos, specifications and additions to the other boats compared to ours, no answer just a bill and “you can file a formal appeal”, I am.

I tried to be logical, just Google “do boats appreciate or depreciate” I said, that didn’t help. “If you tax me at an outrageous rate I will not bring the boat back to Marin after we go to Alaska this summer” the response: “I don’t blame ya” “but you won’t get future tax payments” I said, didn’t matter, they got me now.

  We love having Independence, it has been a huge part of our lives since 2018 and if you have been a follower of this Blog you know that. As I said in the Video “Dream” (  NFF Top 10 Contestant: DREAM - Larry and Jamie McCullough ) “owning Independence has been one of the most rewarding things in my life”, it truly has. Not that every moment has been great, it has not, there have been times of stress, dragging the anchor in the middle of the night, stuck in Honduras for a couple of months during COVID, but it was worth it. Now it is off to Alaska in a month or two depending upon the sea conditions.

Back to the oil change, piece of cake, both engines - oil and filters changed in just about 2 hours. Got to love Independences engine room, so much room to work.

Getting ready to change the oil on the Independence

Nice having so much room in the engine room…not many folks can stand up straight in their engine room.

‘Reverso Pumps’ pump the oil from the bottom of the oil pan. I keep 8 empty 1 gallon jugs from the previous oil change to put the used oil in. I keep plenty of absorbent towels handy as there is always some spillage.

Next is the fuel filters, transmission oil, hydraulic filter, and the coolant filters (coolant checked and ok). Next weekend we are off to Alameda so that the boat will be close to a Cummins service facility, and they will come by and plug their diagnostic computer into our Starboard engine and figure out why a “Check Engine” light is on. I am pretty sure it is loose connection somewhere since it is on intermittently and the engines run great. It will also be good to have the mechanic give the engines a checkup since we will be on another big trip.

I place new oil in the filter and lubricate the “O” ring

I/we are so looking forward to our Alaska trip. I did a good portion of it on a friend’s boat 31 years ago. The wildlife and scenery are some of the best in the world and Independence is the perfect boat for the journey. It is really nice to have that extra power when needed fighting some of the currents in the Pacific Northwest.

It does look like we will be moving on to our next chapter in life when we complete our journey to Alaska. Let us know if you want the keys after we make it to Skagway and Glacier Bay, live your Dream as we have.

Independence59@yahoo.com

Sacramento

Another lovely cruising day takes us from Walnut Grove up the Sacramento River to the City of Sacramento (27NM) in approximately 3 or so hours (still fighting the current!).

Some grand and elegant homes line the levee banks

Busy river tugs and tows. A great deal smaller than those on ‘The Great Loop’ but these captains don’t communicate via VHF…I guess it’s just ‘might makes right’

Watch out for the anchored anglers in front of the Paintersville bridge. By the way, this bridge (unlike others) does not provide lifts until 9:00AM. It’s a good thing Larry trust his measurements!!!

Tower Bridge looks low…

…but I think our PYC chicken will squeek under…

…looks like the lightning brush had a good foot or so…

Old Town Sacramento from the river

The I Street Bridge is up next

Looks are deceiving, but we fit under fine.

The water color difference at the confluence of the Sacramento and American Rivers

Sweet! Tied up at the Rivers Bend Marina in Sacramento and time for a cold one on a hot day.

Checking out ‘Fanny Ann’s Saloon’ in Old Town Sacramento. A sister bar to ‘The Bear’ in Chico

This is one of the reasons why we took the boat to Sacramento…for our friends biennial bash at their house along the American River. Thank you Casey and Joan, yet another fabulous bash!

Boy, that river looks inviting!

Sunday brunch at the Sturgeon on the Sacramento River

They use an old Pan American Airlines jetway from SFO to get folks down to the river and into the restaurant

Nice view of the Sacramento River from our table

Great time with great friends up in Sacramento

Last sunset on the Sacramento River

Early morning start for the nine hour run back to the San Francisco Yacht Club (87NM)

So warm the cows are swimming outside of Rio Vista

This guy shadowed us all the way down from the Rio Vista Bridge and we were happy to see him pass in Suisun Bay

Nice to some sheet steel being made in the USA…we just wonder where it’s going now

The Brothers welcome us home on a beautiful day.