Cumberland Island, GA — INDEPENDENCE CHRONICLES

The exit from St. Augustine, FL was a little more uncomfortable than I had hoped for, as the sun was directly in our eyes and locating the channel markers was quite difficult. In addition, the depths and shoaling were a bit challenging as well but Larry did a great job getting us through and out to the ocean. The adventure did not stop there, as the wind chop was about five feet and very close together which made for a brutal nine hours up to the St. Mary’s Inlet (62NM). A bright spot was a visit we had from a large pod of dolphins that played on the bow waves for a little while (video on my Instagram page; jamiewilliams2000). Pulling into the quiet little anchorage next to Cumberland Island was a treat as we were again met with many visiting dolphins playing around the boat. The following morning we took the tender to Cumberland Island National Seashore and rented bikes intending to do a little ride of eight to ten miles but somehow that turned into a 30 mile ride (much in loose sand). Darn those park service map mileage gauges! Luckily we brought food and water as very little of both is available on the island. What is available are idyllic trails lined with live oaks dangling their Spanish moss (which is neither Spanish nor a moss but an epiphyte), feral horses that were evidently abandoned by Spanish settlers more than 500 years ago. Old mansions and homes that date back to the 1700’s - 1880’s and an old church from the 1890’s that sits on land that had been purchased by a small group of African American freedmen. We only had one day to explore this exceptional place so we took advantage of every moment to see and visit each sight. Our bikes were horrible and one broke down prompting Larry to search high and low to find tools to fix it (thank you Carol), but that did not stop us from having an epic day with our intrepid friends Joan and Casey Kelly. After the last sight was seen we piled back into the tender dirty, thirsty, tired and hungry but really happy we had seen this special place.

Larry, Casey, Joan on their bikes heading out for a little bike ride…

The feral horses of Cumberland Island. For more go to www.wheretraveler.com

Palm Orchard Mansion built by the Carnegie family in 1898

The First African Baptist Church originally built in 1893 and rebuilt in 1937 at the north end of the island

JFK junior and Carolyn Bessette where married here in 1996

Thirty miles later we make it to the South end to visit Dungeness, the home of Thomas & Lucy Carnegie originally built in 1884 on land that General Nathaniel Greene had previously owned

Revolutionary War hero General Nathaniel Greene purchased land on Cumberland Island. He never lived to see the original Dungeness home his wife Catherine built in 1792 - 1803. It still stands in the shadows of the rubble of the second Dungeness.

The Dungeness ruins. The mansion was abandoned by the Carnegie family in 1925 and destroyed by fire in 1959.